Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Lingerie Sewing Time - Lola Brazilian Cut Panties

I sewed two pairs of Lola panties today. They feature a fairly low rise, boyshorts front, and Brazilian cut /a little higher on the back leg opening/ lacy back. The no lace pair is my first try sewed last month. I was curios how they feel and tried to find some opinions before I gave them a try. Since I found few and  like them a lot, I decided to share mine.

Lola Brzilian cut panties variation - a batch of three

These might be my favorite Ohhh Lulu pants. I saw a pair or two on lingerie sewing blogs earlier this year /thus finding Sarah's patterns/ and printed mine a month ago. Sewed 3 pairs since then despite the fact Lola panties are not exactly autumn ones - the rise is really low and the lace is not a warm option. What makes me experiment with them is the beautiful way they incorporate lace and the possibilities to match them with a bra with lacy accents. Plus I like the two in one feel - front and back are so different - and they are comfortable.

Lola Brazilian cut panties detail

Lola Brazilian cut panties - lacy back in black
red lacy variation of Lola Brazilian cut panties

Lola panties are fairly easy to make. If you opt for the lacy back, make sure you have a look at the front piece seam allowances just after sewing the crotch seam together and before sеrging /stitching zigzag on/ the front leg openings. You might need to cut back on the seam allowances at this stage.
Lola Brazilian cut panties I am gorgeous and black lace

One thing proved to be a little tricky - the double needle top-stitching. I tried two options  - top-stitching after zigzag stitch and after sеrging. I hoped surging will make top-stitching easier and leave cleaner seams. While it did help, the curve needed a little help so the front would stay flat between the two stitching lines. Playing with tension helped too.

My first try - zigzag with no tension changes shows a bit of wrinkling between stitch lines. It goes away after pressing and lays flat when worn. Still I wouldn't like it there. The second try - using a sеrger and tweaked tension looks better. Again this is not pressed  look and pressing solves almost any wrinkling.
Lola Brazilian cut panties - no lace variation in pink

double needle wrinkling and ribbon
This was the trickiest part for me. Definitely not difficult, just one to be careful with. I think I will sеrge and play with tension every time I top-stitch a leg opening of panties.
Lola in red - trikot and lace

The third pair has no waist elastic yet. I like the finishes of the previous pairs  - the contrast scalloped on the pink pair and the fold over on the black lace pair. Chose fold over elastic for these but I will wait for a bra to see which colour to choose - red or black.
Lola Brazilian cut panties - no waist elastic red lacy pair

One final thing, I had to consider - sizing. This is my third session of pants sewing. Number one taught me to be extra careful about choosing size. I cut a size down on Lola panties. This is not the perfect strategy for a low rise pattern generally, but I find it successful with all cotton knits pairs and cotton knits and elastic laces pairs so far.

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