Tuesday, 24 February 2015

Marlborough Bra Again - Same Fabric, New Changes for Better Fit

I have sewn four Marlborough bras in a couple of months right after getting the Orange Lingerie bra pattern. Skipping the first off size one, it is three good and wearable bras that get used frequently. All of them feature different finishes on some parts and I am happy with each variation. Now as I have a few more cut, I though I would better show you the forth bra sewn long time ago - autumn 2014 - and share a few quick changes that might improve the fit in some cases, I think /sewing and adding air quicker by eliminating linings, keeping straps on the shoulders by adding lace and bringing the closure higher by mere doubling it/ .

This Marlborough is made out of the same "I am gorgeous" fabric /I love the rainbow part of it/ my very first Marlborough bra was made of. Unlike the first one, I didn't line the cups - the lace is just lace /no silk organza below it/ and the lower cup is not lined either. I was unsure how it will look and feel if I skip the second layer and thus allow more stretch. It is OK. It sews faster and holds as good as the lined one /or even better as it is thinner and more breathable/.

Another thing I changed after #1 is the height of the center back closure. While I used 2 hokes closure on number one /as patterned called for/, I was not happy with them - a bit higher, maybe 3 hooks closure would be better. On the next bras I used more hooks and I was happy with them. But I used a strip closure and I did not have the right colour for the forth one. So I did another totally strange /though absolutely logical LOL/ thing and sewed 2 closures to form a higher closure. At first. I was going to sew it by hand. However I went practical and stitched it on the machine. It is not couture, but it is strong, clean, and what made me do it this way - fast.

I appliqued lace next to the back closure. Again. It is not a styling decision actually. It is a trick to get the fit improved in no time and with added visual interest. This is a DD cup bra and the off shoulder strap is not something rare here. So by adding lace mainly to reduce the back elasticity around center back. Thus the back part of the strap is staying closer to the back center with no pattern piece alternation. Another great thing about this method is the fact, the tiniest little scraps of lace go in the bra, not in the bin.

If you decide to give it a try, machine applique is done on the back pieces before the elastics are attached. You can do it later too but it will take longer to stitch it by hand.

This bra was made in a hurry and the inside look shows the result. Not only it was a limited time project. but it was really dark sewing session too, so I accidentally skipped/misplaced a few stitches along the casing and whip stitched them by hand. It holds nice. This would never be the case if it was an off-size bra.

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