Sunday, 19 April 2015

Lingerie Sewing Time: Lace and Bra Straps Thoughts

With a few completed bras under my belt, I am looking for some variety for my summer projects.

What I found supportive and comfortable in the Marlborough bra, is still a bit too big and too covering for a summer bra, for me. It might be because I used to wear a lot of demi cups and strapless cups before converting to a full cup bra last summer /for a special dress/ and then sewing loads of Marlboroughs, but Marlborough cups feel really extra full this spring. I suppose I will either finish my self-drafted bra soon, or get a new pattern for summer bras to come.

Sewing all my bras

I have stopped buying bras after the first successful bra actually. It was so logical and liberating - a trip to the shop, a few hours by the machine and voila - the perfect fit in the perfect colourway and material. Plus I always have the matching set with undies and undies the way I want them too - maybe even a full range of 3 styles for a bra.

Ready to Wear Bra 

I bought one bra last month though. I just had to. It was not the style, or not even the make, which is flawless as always /I have been wearing this company's bras for almost 20 years/, that made me buy it. It was the lace - I doubt I could get such lace soon. 

So I bought it because of it - four colours lace in soft green with pink roses, lime green leaves and ecru eyelets and leaves. It is a little perfection. All lace bra too. It is a bit more dense than embroidered netting - my favorite summer material, but the lace.... it is exquisite and really rear - French order by a local maker. This bra started the lace on the strap thoughts.

Lace on the straps


One other thing caught my attention after the lace was brought home - the straps. The lace climbs the straps on this bra and makes the front lacy in every inch you can see. It is pretty easy to get it done this way. It is interesting, and intricate... although it makes coverage even greater.

Marlborough with or without lace over the straps


I'm in the making of a new Marlboorough bra now. It is in the  before-adding-straps phase now. So the option of adding lace was considered for a day or two... but I think, I will leave it for some other time and some other bra. The red is so stylish without it. I have the perfect little matching lacy pieces, but like it more withouth them, I think.

This bra was the one I intended to make just after the first wearable muslin. I even cut all the pieces before I finished the muslin one... and it was the wrong size... So I kept it for this spring, the undies were done and lacy... I saved the lace, despite going a cup size up and cut all the rest again for this bra last week. Thus the big cup again. Having said this, I just have to add, the Marlborough bra pattern ia a great strat for your bra making journey - it features relatively simple construction, great support and beautiful look. You can find more thoughts on it here.

"Reverse" straps on a Marlborough bra

However, this new pair and the lacy thoughts made me do one thing with my future Marlboroughs, I was procrastinating this winter - I will get the strap sliders on the back. It is just reverse sewing - the circle to the back, the seam attachment to the cup. It will keep the front of strap clean /no rings, no sliders/ and the strap in a single layer /double part and slider being moved to the back/.

Here is the what pattern calls for - a ring above the cup and a slider over the shoulder. This is my third Marlborough and I love it, but feel a bit unsure about the ring placement.

How do you feel about the bra straps - sliders on the shoulder, or at the back?
Does it depend on the back of the blouse/dress?

I know the reverse thing I will be doing will add some height on the back and the upper cup part is practically safer for this height - sitting in lower point between the shoulder and the cup height.

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